Forgive my diversion into TV for a moment, but like a lot of you, I’ve gotten hooked on the new season of TWIN PEAKS. I coveted the silk robe Agent Cooper‘s former secretary Diane Evans wore in Part 7. Its colors and floral pattern look like something I’d wear because of my vintage sensibilities. When I went hunting for a good image of it, I stumbled across the photo of Cooper in his bathrobe in an earlier season. Again another red robe, but his looks like a Pendleton with abstract snow-capped mountains. Two red robes reflecting their wearer’s tastes and gender, but seemingly calling out to each other between seasons, symbolically marking each for the other half of the pair they once were. The more concrete print of her robe is a stronger image for a woman who wears bold clothes, maybe once simply for fashion, but perhaps now they buck her up and distract her from the bitterness and pain of her broken heart.
By msbethg in Film Festivals, Series, TCM Film Festival, The Road to TCMFF 2017 Tags: 1920s, 1932, 2017, Academy Award, Allied, Art Deco, Art of Motion Picture Costume Design, Best Costume Design, Blonde Bombshell, Blood and Sand, Bombshell, catalog, classic, classic film, classic films, classic movie, classic movies, Club TCM, costume, costumes, costuming, design, display, displays, exhibit, exhibition, exhibitions, exhibits, exotica, Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them, Fashion, Fences, FIDM, FIDM Museum, film, film exhibition, film fanatics, film fans, film fest, film festival, film festivals, film fests, Film Radar, films, Florence Foster Jenkins, Harlow, history, Hollywood, illustrated, illustration, Jackie, Jean Harlow, Karie Bible, Kubo and the Two Strings, LA, La La Land, list, lists, Los Angeles, Max Factor Building, motion picture, movie, movies, museum, museums, Natacha Rambova, Packard, poster, posters, Regency, Rudolph Valentino, S. Charles Lee, show, shows, silent, Silent Film, Silent Film Quarterly, silent films, silents, TCM, TCM Classic Film Fest, TCM Classic Film Festival, TCMFF, TCMFF 2017, TCMFF17, TCMFF2017, The Birth of Motion Pictures, The Hollywood Museum, The Road to TCMFF, The Road to TCMFF 2017, tourist, Turner Classic Movies, Turner Classic Movies Film Fest, Turner Classic Movies Film Festival, Valentino, visit, visitor, visitors, visits
If you’re going to the TCM Classic Film Festival, and you’re searching for ways to make the most of your visit, this list is for you! Colleague and friend Karie Bible, founder of the long-respected site covering specialty film-going in Los Angeles Film Radar, and I have compiled selective lists of activities sure to help a film fanatic fill any extra time before and after the fest. Today’s list focuses on time-limited movie-related exhibitions.
EXOTICA: FASHION & FILM COSTUME OF THE 1920s
This is my must-see on our list. Organized by FIDM, EXOTICA highlights international influences on early film costumes. As silent cinema portrayed foreign lands, the requisite wardrobe established characters and settings and off-the-screen inspired real world fashions. Soon sheiks were romancing senoritas, and ladies and gentlemen were lounging in chinoiserie pajamas. Two special pieces on display are Rudolph Valentino’s bolero from BLOOD AND SAND (1922) and a dress designed by his second wife Natacha Rambova. The exhibit runs now through April 22nd and is FREE and open to the public.
25TH ANNUAL ART OF MOTION PICTURE COSTUME DESIGN
Also at the FIDM Museum, this exhibit gathers together “more than one hundred costumes from twenty-three films.” Represented films include FANTASTIC BEASTS AND WHERE TO FIND THEM, ALLIED, KUBO AND THE TWO STRINGS, LA LA LAND, FLORENCE FOSTER JENKINS, and FENCES. You’ll be able to see up close the craftsmanship that went into designing these costumes and how distinct the creations for each film are. Only one film nominated for a 2016 Academy Award for Best Costume Design is not represented by a display, JACKIE. Admission is FREE.
JEAN HARLOW: HOLLYWOOD’S FIRST BLONDE BOMBSHELL
This exhibit recently opened at the Hollywood Museum on Highland. That is within walking distance down the street from the TCMFF. The show features Harlow’s 1932 Packard, a costume from BOMBSHELL (1933), memorabilia, and other rare items. Adult admission is $15. Seniors, students, and children receive discounted entry. The exhibit will run for several months. Bonus: The museum is located in the Max Factor Building, designed by architect S. Charles Lee in the “Hollywood Regency Art Deco style.”
THE BIRTH OF THE MOTION PICTURES: AN ILLUSTRATED HISTORY OF SILENT CINEMA 1910-1929
This exhibit is further away and is open for limited hours Wednesdays through Sundays, so it requires extra time and planning to visit, but if you love silent film or the art of movie poster illustration, you should try to fit it into your schedule. The show is being held in the town of Brea, California, about one hour outside of Los Angeles. It features rare silent film posters and an actual Academy Award from the silent era! Much of the material on display is rare and shown on loan from a private collector. The limited edition catalog, sure to become a collectible, has been called “a masterpiece” by Silent Film Quarterly. Admission is $3, and the exhibit closes on April 14.
Stay tuned for the next The Road To TCMFF 2017 featuring classic film-related events!
By msbethg in Actresses, Bette Davis, Costume Designers, Costuming, Genres, Movies, Of Human Bondage, Orry-Kelly, Series, Susan Sarandon, TV Biopics, What Ever Happened to Baby Jane?, Women He's Undressed Tags: actress, actresses, Baby Jane, Baby Jane Hudson, Bette, Bette Davis, bra, braless, bras, brassiere, brassieres, buttons, child star, costume, costume designer, costume supervisor, costuming, Crawford, Davis, documentary, Feud, foulards, FX, Gillian Armstrong, gothic, Hollywood, Hollywood gothic, Jane Hudson, Joan, Joan Crawford, Mildred Rogers, miniseries, Of Human Bondage, Orry-Kelly, pockets, premiere, red carpet, show, suit, Susan Sarandon, television, The Calling, TV, TV show, underwire, uniform, What Ever Happened to Baby Jane, Women He's Undressed
FEUD premieres tonight on FX, and like many classic film fans, I’m watching to see how legends Bette Davis and Joan Crawford are portrayed, and I’ll be paying particular attention to one area of costuming.
Susan Sarandon plays Davis. The latter actress, while capable of glamour and being beautiful onscreen, always favored her performances over the strictures of the star machine that led more wary or canny actresses to compromise on characterization in favor of not lowering beauty standards too far. Davis felt no restriction. She wanted her Mildred Rogers in OF HUMAN BONDAGE (1934) to look as sickly as possible when the script called for that, and she pushed for her WHAT EVER HAPPENED TO BABY JANE? (1962) costume to be more extreme than as originally designed.
Sarandon has shown a willingness to deglam onscreen for the right roles, but offscreen she’s been a poster girl for not looking her age or letting it determine whether she should be sexy on the red carpet and how. A favorite outfit of hers to wear to movie launches, so much so it’s almost a uniform, is a suit with no shirt worn underneath its jacket, often leaving a pretty bra visible for all to see. If her bra isn’t in view, its push-up effects leave no doubt of its presence.
I’m finding it ironic that an actress sartorially famous for her bras and gravity defying chest is playing one who eschewed underwire bras, despite being as generously endowed. As the recent Orry-Kelly documentary, WOMEN HE’S UNDRESSED (2015) revealed Davis was convinced wearing underwire caused breast cancer. The costume designer was left having to camouflage that the leading lady was undersupported or braless by “using foulards, pockets, buttons, and other visual tricks.”
So while I’m watching FEUD, I’m going to be looking at Sarandon’s silhouette to see if series costume supervisor Katie Saunders incorporated this particular quirk when approving designs. Like Davis knew, it’s paying attention to the little details that help a performer build and inhabit a character.
By msbethg in Actresses, Audrey Hepburn, Before They Were Stars, Series Tags: 1949, 1951, actress, Audrey Hepburn, Before They Were Stars, British, cigarette girl, classic, classic film, classic films, comedy, costuming, film, films, Laughter in Paradise, movie, movies, musical, photo, photograph, pre-fame, promo, promotional, publicity, publicity still, revue, Sauce Tartare, star, Terence Pepper
In Audrey Hepburn‘s third film, the British comedy LAUGHTER IN PARADISE (1951), she played the part of “Cigarette Girl” She was cute and memorable in a role that gave her more than one scene and multiple lines. Costuming treated her body as something to be made more stereotypically sexy, so they padded and pointed her chest.
In the above picture from her London revue days, she was starting to make a name for herself, but the costuming plan was corrective as well. The long legs are shown off, but her hips are made to look fuller by tacking on a partial skirt which in turn makes her waist look more nipped. Her bust line is obscured by an asymmetric neckline and shoulder, and her elegant “swan neck” is shortened by a ruffled collar.
Her gamine figure was not yet receiving the tailored looks best suited to it. Audrey’s impact on style and acceptable body types would come after better roles.